On the way to Acoma Pueblo . . . . But first a stop in Gallup, NM

"Big Sky" leaving the Hopi Mesa

We left the Hopi Mesas mid afternoon on a slightly warmer, beautiful sunny day heading towards Acoma but first we had to make a stop in the city of Gallup. The city has a rich and somewhat checkered history as the center of commerce and trade for the 4 corners Indian nations in their contradictory, confusing, often tragic and occasionally lucrative relationship with Euro-Americans. Modern day Gallup is still full of pawn shops where Indian art and especially jewelry is hocked and resold as it has been for well over 100 years.

We visited the most famous of these “Richardson’s,” literally on old Route 66 which used to go directly through town until it was replaced by the interstate highway system. In the back of the store people were lining up to try and bring in a few dollars for their “stuff.” The store is packed with amazing jewelry, hundreds of saddles, Pendleton and Navajo blankets, guns and more. A diverse group of customers, mostly Indians, were both shopping and selling their wares. Quite a remarkable scene.

The music scene in town looked a little weak but we weren't there long enough to really find out.

Rock and Sports Grill? Oh my!

This very exciting venue directly across the street was empty 

Kate heard that the bridal suite was only $110 / night !


We next ventured to Hotel Rancho, a legendary spot where countless movie stars from John Wayne to Elvis and others of western cinema fame stayed over the years. Although in winter the hotel had only a few guests, it was in the excellent shape and the hotel seemed frozen in time. 

Armond Ortega and yours truly

 There was an elderly man in the front of the hotel lobby who we chatted with and I later saw him talking with the clerk in the jewelry store in the hotel. I put 2 and 2 together and realized he was not only the proprietor of the hotel and jewelry store but also the patriarch of the Ortega chain of Indian Jewelry stores found though out the southwest. (After leaving Gallup we started to see Oretega stores, now owned by Armond's sons, everywhere in New Mexico) Armond was quite a character. He told us that the hotel was packed most of the year and he seemed to really enjoy his status as one of the central figures in Indian Art Commerce. The Route 66 neon was glowing as we headed out of town for a very cold MPG night in Grants on the way to Acoma. 

Rt 66 Neon. . . thats what I am talking about

Did you all know that I had a Rt 66 bakery too?